How To get Spectacular Skin in 4 Steps
I originally wrote this post last year, I have just updated my advice with fresher and better Green Beauty selectios to prep photo-ready skin.
I attended an amazing Masterclass this week put together by Lan Ngyen-Grealis, featuring talks from Daniel Sandler, Ruby Hammer MBE and Phyllis Cohen. It was an amazing night of makeup and Art, inspiring and educational.
I was particularly taken by Ruby Hammer and her quiet and beautiful way of working. Ruby spoke to us about how she creates beautiful skin and I feel I work in much the same way (if I may say so). Prepping skin for a shoot is a many step process, so I do not suggest it for every day, but for Photoshoots or special occasions, it is perfect. So for all you young makeup artists wondering how I get the skin the way I do, or for you makeup lovers looking for insight into how to get that lit-from-withing glow: here you go!
1. Cleanse and exfoliate
If I am on a beauty shoot, I sometimes wash the model's face (or ask her to do so) with a cloth, warm water and a cleanser like the Pai Camelia + Rose Cleanser Other times I use Cotton Pads and Micellar Water. Great Organic options are Inika Micellar Water, or Sukin Micellar Water.
IF I am on a beauty photoshoot, I often add an extra step to exfoliate the skin. I sometimes have a scrub with me like the Sukin Supergreens Facial Scrub. However, I prefer a liquid exfoliant. it is faster and easier, especially on location and not in a studio. I find using a liquid exfoliator it really clears a congested complexion, try The Beauty Chef Probiotic Skin Refiner
If rinsing the skin is all you need, try the Grown Alchemist Toner for a lovely light scent to balance the skin before moisturizer or for a moisture boost, try the Bybi Beauty Mega Mist with Hyaluronic acid.
If I have the time and I feel it is needed, a Quick exfoliating mask Like the Juice Beauty Green Apple Exfoliating Mask is the perfect way to banish dead skin cells and boost circulation to prep for the nest step of Hydration.
2. Serum or Face Oil:
Models are always grateful for my potions and lotions and my many layers of skincare and I apply many layers of skincare to smooth and hydrate the skin for the best makeup application.
Once the skin is fresh and ready to receive moisture I always do some sort of mix ofOil/ serum and moisturiser.
My current favourite face oil is The Vanderohe Face Serum, which is a gorgeous premium organic oil blend, which I use as a moisturizer as well. I also Love the Inika Rosehip Oil as a simple face oil to boost moisture.
If the models' skin feels hydrated enough, I generally omit the moisturiser and go straight to the primer, but I need added hydration, I opt for a light moisturizer since I have gone through the previous steps.
Currently, I use Weleda Rose Cream or Weleda Almond Cream which is perfect for sensitive skin. At this point I usually give my models a face massage, this may be quick and light just to work in the skincare, or may be a longer if I feel the skin can use a bit of a circulation boost.
I do often layer face oil, moisturiser and primer. I mix and match the layers of skincare depending on the requirements of the shoot and my model's skin. That said, primer is a step I rarely skip, because foundation and skin just looks better.
Once all that is done, I tend to then work in thin layers. Ruby described this process as applying "veils" allowing thenatural texture and tone of the skin shine through. This is how I have always worked and it was so rewarding to see that someone I respect work in a similar way.
To apply the base, I swipe my brush, sponge or finger if I want a lighter finish, or I pat for added coverage. I work as much as possible with the above-mentioned products, and only use concealer where necessary. I have just discovered Hynt Duet Concealer, which offers great coverage with only the tiniest amount.
I use my fingers often, especially if I am only applying a small amount of make up. Where more product is necessary, my tools of choice are a damp Beauty Blender, or the Barely Definer Sponge my Artis brush oval 6, I have also recently started using the MOTD Concealer brush as a foundation brush.
My aesthetic is very natural and I love ski to look like skin but perfect. I dot/pat concealer gently where needed, and generally only powder the forehead, the nose and either side of the nose to start, and then carry on with the makeup, and powder again at the end if/where needed.
I am going to stop there because or else I will go into a WHOLE makeup lesson.
I think highlighting and contouring can be part of the base of a makeup, but I really only wanted to cover my basic skin technique in this post. Feel free to get in touch if you have any questions about my techniques!
What is your favourite way to apply foundation?
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Main Photo by Tiffany Mumford for White Vest PRoject, Model: Diletta Gomez Gane